Introduction
Nestled along the banks of the River Twrch in the heart of the Swansea Valley, The George IV Inn – Upper Cwmtwrch is a 16th-century country pub full of character—and famously generous portions. From the moment you step inside, the sound of the rushing river and the warm glow of exposed beams transport you to a bygone era. Whether you’re here for the legendary carvery, fall-off-the-bone ribs, monster steaks, or the Saturday night specials, expect hearty, home-cooked fare in a truly historic setting.
Memories of Cwmtwrch
My earliest memories of The George IV date back to the 1980s, when it was run by the parents of my childhood friends, Marcus and Cain. Those visits left a lasting impression: I still remember ordering chicken and chips served in a wicker basket—delicious moments I’ve never forgotten. Recently, I discovered that Marcus and Cain Coles have continued the family tradition at the White Hart Thatched Inn and Brewery in Llanddarog. So, returning tonight with family, I couldn’t resist ordering chicken again—for old times’ sake.
The Meal
Starter
To begin, we enjoyed the complimentary salad bar. It offered a generous mix of fresh leaves, slaws, and garnishes—a refreshing way to whet the appetite.
Mains
Half Roast Chicken, served with creamy mashed potatoes, garden peas, and rich gravy. The chicken was tender, with crisp, herbal-salted skin that made every bite a pleasure.
10 oz Rump Steak, cooked to a rosy medium-rare, paired with fat-cut chips and peppercorn sauce.
Cajun Chicken Breast Burger, available plain if preferred. This featured a grilled, Cajun-spiced chicken breast on a brioche bun with burger sauce, iceberg lettuce, tomato, an onion ring, and coleslaw on the side.
Lasagne, layered with chunky beef ragu, béchamel, and melted cheddar, served alongside salad, fries, and garlic bread.
Each dish earned praise around the table, and the portions were undeniably generous—ideal if you’ve arrived hungry. That said, such large servings do carry the risk of waste (we noticed a few half-finished plates at nearby tables). While the quantity is impressive, a few menu items felt slightly overpriced—not due to portion size, but when compared with the overall value offered by other restaurants of similar or even higher standards. It’s something to keep in mind if you’re balancing appetite, quality, and budget.
Service & Ambience Notes
On a busy Saturday evening, the atmosphere was lively and welcoming, but the service didn’t quite keep pace. We had to prompt staff to clear our table upon arrival and again between courses, while drink orders lagged behind. We were seated in the observatory area, at a wicker table with a glass top—a charming spot, though the glass surface was sticky, with bits of food lodged underneath. Though a minor issue, it felt a little out of step with the otherwise inviting setting. A touch more attentiveness would certainly elevate the overall dining experience.
A Glimpse into History
A sign inside the inn marks its dedication to King George IV (born 12 August 1762; reigned 1820–1830). Local folklore suggests that the king once stopped here, although no definitive proof has emerged. What is certain is the building’s impressive age—over 300 years—and its unusual geography. Parts of the pub once stood across three counties: Breconshire, Glamorgan, and Carmarthenshire. A 1914 Labour Voice article even joked about a “three-legged table,” claiming you could get drunk in all three counties at once.
“CWMTWRCH’S DISTINCTION… In one room of this house there is a three-legged table, with one leg in Glamorgan, another in Breconshire, and the third in Carmarthenshire. If one must get drunk, why not in three counties at the same time?”
— Labour Voice, 27 June 1914
Conclusion
The George IV Inn – Upper Cwmtwrch continues to stand as a beloved landmark where history, river views, and mighty portions meet. From perfectly roasted chicken to juicy steaks and indulgent lasagne, the food delivers both comfort and quality. Just be mindful when ordering: portions are generous, and balancing appetite, quality, and your budget can make all the difference. Whether you’re exploring the Swansea Valley or looking for a nostalgic taste of Welsh pub tradition, The George IV offers more than just a meal—it’s a step back in time, one satisfying bite at a time.
Due to continuing staffing shortages in their kitchen the George IV in Cwmtwrch sadly closed their doors on the 21st July 2025.
Practical Information
- Location: Upper Cwmtwrch, Swansea Valley, SA9
- Website: thegeorgecountryinn.co.uk
- Hygiene Rating: 5 (‘Very Good’) – Food Standards Agency